The stainless fuel rail is connected to the cylinder head with 2 x10mm bolts. The rear one has easier access. Remove the bolt, (evenly coat the sensor eye, the underside of the bolt head and the fuel rail mount with heatsink compound, if you have it, if not don't bother), make a gentle curve in the corrugated cover of the sensor and slide it under the fuel rail and onto the mount. Replace the bolt and tighten in stages to 20-26 N/m Mazda spec. Cable tie the sensors corrugated sleeve to the wiring loom on the fuel rail.
Engine Guard.
Mazda MX5 2009 6 Sp Manual with Hardtop.
Before starting, read the manual, then read it again, then ask the manufacturer any questions. Your questions will be answered in a timely manner.
This is only one of many ways the Engine Guard can be fitted to the MX5 NC.
Centre Console
Use a trim tool to remove the rear panel of the centre console. This panel joins the rear panel (where the fuel cap lever is ) to the centre console. Remove the 3 phillips screws from the console. Remove the drink holder rubber mat and the phillips screw beneath it. Remove the rubber mat in front of the gear lever.
Lift the console from the front and slide it back a little to clear the 12V/Aux outlet panel.
Gentle pull the 12V/Aux panel back toward the gear shift. Unplug the 12V and the audio aux connectors and remove the panel from the car. The 2 instrument side panels will slide back and can be removed.
12V DC
The fuse box is at the passengers left ankle Remove the fuse panel cover. To remove the side panel lift and remove the door sill and peel the lower, front door trim clear of the plastic side panel. Use a trim tool to remove the plastic pin at the front of the panel, there is a white button in a keyway. Pull the panel toward the centre console and allow the white button to find the keyway. Remove the panel.
Use a Narva 'Add a circuit' and lengthen the wire using a soldering iron and heatshrink. Remove the 'Add a circuit' fuse. The lower bank of fuses is always on (door locks etc) use the upper bank to avoid parasitic drain. The 'Add a circuit' has blunt pins, file (or Dremel) the pins to a taper like a fuse to make it easily fit. Run the wire toward the metal side panel and behind the fuse box and up toward the glove box, this keeps the wire out of the way and stands the fuses upright making them easier to change.
The wiring loom runs below the glove box under the plastic panel. It easy to remove the glove box. On the inside of the glove box ( LHS) is a round plastic button in a keyway which is attached to the nylon cord damper. Slide the button into the keyway and gently allow the cord to retract. If you let it go it may break. Press the glovebox hinges toward the centre and the glovebox and contents will spill into your lap.
Run the 12V wire along the loom, there are a couple of screws but you can poke the wire through without removing them. Run the wire under the LHS of the audio panel and out to the lower centre area.
Earth
Under the centre console are 4 studs with nuts holding the gear lever. Prepare an earth wire with a soldered eye connector (crimp if you must, crimp and solder if you can). Place the eye over a front stud and run a 10mm nyloc nut on to trap the eye between the nuts. Run the wire forward next to the 12V wire.
The electrical connection into the cabin is moulded and sealed and should be avoided. Run the sensor wire onto the A/C hard tube above the back of the engine. Pop the tube out of its mount, there is a gap at the back of the mount for the wire, push the tube back into the mount, cable tie down to the ABS unit to meet the hood release cable.
From the engine bay the hood release cable has a grommet with plenty of clearance between the grommet and cable. Inside the cabin that grommet is moulded into a cone the tip of which is bonded to the cable. You cannot slide the grommet along the cable.
From the engine bay, at an angle, avoiding the cable, use an awl (or a thin, straightened, sharpened wire coat hanger ) to pierce the grommet inside the cabin. Remove the awl and replace it with a thin hard wire from the engine bay into the cabin. In the engine bay make a hook on the wire, solder or twist the sensor wires together and place it on the hook. Use grips to flatten the join and spray the whole join and the length of the sensor wire with silicone lube.
From the cabin gently draw the sensor wire through the grommet. If you have the 2 sensor model repeat the process for the second sensor wire. Run the sensor wire(s) along the hood release cable right up to the release lever. Its important to use 4 or 5 cable ties here to avoid fouling the brake or throttle. From the release lever the wire travels along the lower plastic panel to the centre audio unit.
Display Unit
Drill a hole in the RHS of the 12V/ Aux panel, fit a grommet and run the display cable through the hole. (A black panel plug will cover the hole should you ever wish to remove it). I opted to shorten and tin all the cables and used the smallest connector block available to make all the connections including the beeper. I lengthened the beeper wire and fixed it on the underside of the dash using a velcro dot.
Follow the easy instructions for the alarm set points. Drive with confidence !
Mazda MX5
Temperature Sensor
The stainless fuel rail is connected to the cylinder head with 2 x10mm bolts. The rear one has easier access. Remove the bolt, (evenly coat the sensor eye, the underside of the bolt head and the fuel rail mount with heatsink compound, if you have it, if not don't bother), make a gentle curve in the corrugated cover of the sensor and slide it under the fuel rail and onto the mount. Replace the bolt and tighten in stages to 20-26 N/m Mazda spec. Cable tie the sensors corrugated sleeve to the wiring loom on the fuel rail.
Engine Guard.
Mazda MX5 2009 6 Sp Manual with Hardtop.
Before starting, read the manual, then read it again, then ask the manufacturer any questions. Your questions will be answered in a timely manner.
This is only one of many ways the Engine Guard can be fitted to the MX5 NC.
Centre Console
Use a trim tool to remove the rear panel of the centre console. This panel joins the rear panel (where the fuel cap lever is ) to the centre console. Remove the 3 phillips screws from the console. Remove the drink holder rubber mat and the phillips screw beneath it. Remove the rubber mat in front of the gear lever.
Lift the console from the front and slide it back a little to clear the 12V/Aux outlet panel.
Gentle pull the 12V/Aux panel back toward the gear shift. Unplug the 12V and the audio aux connectors and remove the panel from the car. The 2 instrument side panels will slide back and can be removed.
12V DC
The fuse box is at the passengers left ankle Remove the fuse panel cover. To remove the side panel lift and remove the door sill and peel the lower, front door trim clear of the plastic side panel. Use a trim tool to remove the plastic pin at the front of the panel, there is a white button in a keyway. Pull the panel toward the centre console and allow the white button to find the keyway. Remove the panel.
Use a Narva 'Add a circuit' and lengthen the wire using a soldering iron and heatshrink. Remove the 'Add a circuit' fuse. The lower bank of fuses is always on (door locks etc) use the upper bank to avoid parasitic drain. The 'Add a circuit' has blunt pins, file (or Dremel) the pins to a taper like a fuse to make it easily fit. Run the wire toward the metal side panel and behind the fuse box and up toward the glove box, this keeps the wire out of the way and stands the fuses upright making them easier to change.
The wiring loom runs below the glove box under the plastic panel. It easy to remove the glove box. On the inside of the glove box ( LHS) is a round plastic button in a keyway which is attached to the nylon cord damper. Slide the button into the keyway and gently allow the cord to retract. If you let it go it may break. Press the glovebox hinges toward the centre and the glovebox and contents will spill into your lap.
Run the 12V wire along the loom, there are a couple of screws but you can poke the wire through without removing them. Run the wire under the LHS of the audio panel and out to the lower centre area.
Earth
Under the centre console are 4 studs with nuts holding the gear lever. Prepare an earth wire with a soldered eye connector (crimp if you must, crimp and solder if you can). Place the eye over a front stud and run a 10mm nyloc nut on to trap the eye between the nuts. Run the wire forward next to the 12V wire.
The electrical connection into the cabin is moulded and sealed and should be avoided. Run the sensor wire onto the A/C hard tube above the back of the engine. Pop the tube out of its mount, there is a gap at the back of the mount for the wire, push the tube back into the mount, cable tie down to the ABS unit to meet the hood release cable.
From the engine bay the hood release cable has a grommet with plenty of clearance between the grommet and cable. Inside the cabin that grommet is moulded into a cone the tip of which is bonded to the cable. You cannot slide the grommet along the cable.
From the engine bay, at an angle, avoiding the cable, use an awl (or a thin, straightened, sharpened wire coat hanger ) to pierce the grommet inside the cabin. Remove the awl and replace it with a thin hard wire from the engine bay into the cabin. In the engine bay make a hook on the wire, solder or twist the sensor wires together and place it on the hook. Use grips to flatten the join and spray the whole join and the length of the sensor wire with silicone lube.
From the cabin gently draw the sensor wire through the grommet. If you have the 2 sensor model repeat the process for the second sensor wire. Run the sensor wire(s) along the hood release cable right up to the release lever. Its important to use 4 or 5 cable ties here to avoid fouling the brake or throttle. From the release lever the wire travels along the lower plastic panel to the centre audio unit.
Display Unit
Drill a hole in the RHS of the 12V/ Aux panel, fit a grommet and run the display cable through the hole. (A black panel plug will cover the hole should you ever wish to remove it). I opted to shorten and tin all the cables and used the smallest connector block available to make all the connections including the beeper. I lengthened the beeper wire and fixed it on the underside of the dash using a velcro dot.
Follow the easy instructions for the alarm set points. Drive with confidence !
Great product, every car should have one .