Freecall: 1800 720 018
Suits: cars, trucks, boats, motorbikes, heavy equipment, generators
Suits: cars, trucks, boats, motorbikes,
heavy equipment, generators
Freecall: 1800 720 018
These were sent to us by a mechanic who installed a system on his 200 series Landcruiser (plus a mates car). This was an ENGINE GUARD EG01-2 system with a sensor on both cylinder heads.
Important: This sensor location requires removing the intercooler. If installing without removing the intercooler, use the rear inner tappet cover bolts on both cylinder heads.
On earlier model vehicles, an alternative location is one sensor on the driver’s side head at the rear inlet side where there is a bolt into the head casting.
If installing on a 79 series V8 and using a dual bolt-on sensor model, use the rear inner tappet cover bolts on both heads.
This location has proven over years to provide the fastest response to temp changes- but is on the exhaust side of the cylinder head which is normally to be avoided. In this case, the location is around 100mm from the nearest exhaust port and so temp changes due to higher exhaust temps are not significant.
If the Ranger or BT50 is either a manual or the owner wants maximum protection this location on the front of the engine shows accurate actual coolant temp. Use the lower bolt with the second sensor
This engine bay fuse location F38 is for heated seats and is ignition switched so the owner can get a 12v supply from here and run a positive cable in with the sensor cable(s).
This is a typical low profile piggy back fuse adaptor that allows the plastic cover to still fit on the fuse box
This is a typical second sensor location on the pan of the transmission.
The petrol V6 used in the FJ, the Prado and Hilux are difficult to install bolt-on temp sensors on the inlet side of the head but there are bolts locations on both left and right heads high up on the exhaust side that work well. These are near the rear of the engine.
This awesome beach recovery vehicle is used to pull bogged vehicles out on beaches in South Australia. The owner installed 2 complete dual sensor EG01-2. One system monitors the engine with sensors on each head, and the other system monitors both transmission AND transfer case temps.
This current model Hilux has a dual bolt-on sensor EG01-2 installed with a sensor on the front of the head near the top radiator hose outlet, and the second on the rear of the head.
Temperature Sensor
The stainless fuel rail is connected to the cylinder head with 2 x10mm bolts. The rear one has easier access. Remove the bolt, (evenly coat the sensor eye, the underside of the bolt head and the fuel rail mount with heatsink compound, if you have it, if not don't bother), make a gentle curve in the corrugated cover of the sensor and slide it under the fuel rail and onto the mount. Replace the bolt and tighten in stages to 20-26 N/m Mazda spec. Cable tie the sensors corrugated sleeve to the wiring loom on the fuel rail.
Engine Guard.
Mazda MX5 2009 6 Sp Manual with Hardtop.
Before starting, read the manual, then read it again, then ask the manufacturer any questions. Your questions will be answered in a timely manner.
This is only one of many ways the Engine Guard can be fitted to the MX5 NC.
Centre Console
Use a trim tool to remove the rear panel of the centre console. This panel joins the rear panel (where the fuel cap lever is ) to the centre console. Remove the 3 phillips screws from the console. Remove the drink holder rubber mat and the phillips screw beneath it. Remove the rubber mat in front of the gear lever.
Lift the console from the front and slide it back a little to clear the 12V/Aux outlet panel.
Gentle pull the 12V/Aux panel back toward the gear shift. Unplug the 12V and the audio aux connectors and remove the panel from the car. The 2 instrument side panels will slide back and can be removed.
12V DC
The fuse box is at the passengers left ankle Remove the fuse panel cover. To remove the side panel lift and remove the door sill and peel the lower, front door trim clear of the plastic side panel. Use a trim tool to remove the plastic pin at the front of the panel, there is a white button in a keyway. Pull the panel toward the centre console and allow the white button to find the keyway. Remove the panel.
Use a Narva 'Add a circuit' and lengthen the wire using a soldering iron and heatshrink. Remove the 'Add a circuit' fuse. The lower bank of fuses is always on (door locks etc) use the upper bank to avoid parasitic drain. The 'Add a circuit' has blunt pins, file (or Dremel) the pins to a taper like a fuse to make it easily fit. Run the wire toward the metal side panel and behind the fuse box and up toward the glove box, this keeps the wire out of the way and stands the fuses upright making them easier to change.
The wiring loom runs below the glove box under the plastic panel. It easy to remove the glove box. On the inside of the glove box ( LHS) is a round plastic button in a keyway which is attached to the nylon cord damper. Slide the button into the keyway and gently allow the cord to retract. If you let it go it may break. Press the glovebox hinges toward the centre and the glovebox and contents will spill into your lap.
Run the 12V wire along the loom, there are a couple of screws but you can poke the wire through without removing them. Run the wire under the LHS of the audio panel and out to the lower centre area.
Earth
Under the centre console are 4 studs with nuts holding the gear lever. Prepare an earth wire with a soldered eye connector (crimp if you must, crimp and solder if you can). Place the eye over a front stud and run a 10mm nyloc nut on to trap the eye between the nuts. Run the wire forward next to the 12V wire.
The electrical connection into the cabin is moulded and sealed and should be avoided. Run the sensor wire onto the A/C hard tube above the back of the engine. Pop the tube out of its mount, there is a gap at the back of the mount for the wire, push the tube back into the mount, cable tie down to the ABS unit to meet the hood release cable.
From the engine bay the hood release cable has a grommet with plenty of clearance between the grommet and cable. Inside the cabin that grommet is moulded into a cone the tip of which is bonded to the cable. You cannot slide the grommet along the cable.
From the engine bay, at an angle, avoiding the cable, use an awl (or a thin, straightened, sharpened wire coat hanger ) to pierce the grommet inside the cabin. Remove the awl and replace it with a thin hard wire from the engine bay into the cabin. In the engine bay make a hook on the wire, solder or twist the sensor wires together and place it on the hook. Use grips to flatten the join and spray the whole join and the length of the sensor wire with silicone lube.
From the cabin gently draw the sensor wire through the grommet. If you have the 2 sensor model repeat the process for the second sensor wire. Run the sensor wire(s) along the hood release cable right up to the release lever. Its important to use 4 or 5 cable ties here to avoid fouling the brake or throttle. From the release lever the wire travels along the lower plastic panel to the centre audio unit.
Display Unit
Drill a hole in the RHS of the 12V/ Aux panel, fit a grommet and run the display cable through the hole. (A black panel plug will cover the hole should you ever wish to remove it). I opted to shorten and tin all the cables and used the smallest connector block available to make all the connections including the beeper. I lengthened the beeper wire and fixed it on the underside of the dash using a velcro dot.
Follow the easy instructions for the alarm set points. Drive with confidence !
Great product, every car should have one .
It connects to a neat digital display you adhere to your dash, giving instant real-time temperature:
It has a loud audible alarm that alerts you to a warning temperature (that you pre-set). I found my normal operating temperature on the head at the attachment point I chose was about 70 degrees, so I set 75 degrees for my warning. You can calibrate the gauge’s displayed temperature with the actual water temperature with a cheap food thermometer stuck into your radiator cap, and then adjust your setting to suit. I am happy with just lining it up above my known normal engine running temperature.
A major advantage of this device is that it is fast. You immediately know exactly what’s happening, and if tuned to an appropriate limit, it will tell you. I soon learnt the effects on engine temperature of sitting idly in traffic vs moving along, the effects of coolant, and what losing any water did to the cooling circuit. No more guess work.
These inexpensive little systems (about $120) are made in Australia and are manufactured and sold from Mission Beach, Queensland by Engineguard (www.engineguard.com.au or 1800 72 0018).
They also sell (for about $130) a version that enables connection to your standard oil pressure switch circuit or alternatively as a voltmeter, again detecting out-of-range situations. You can also buy a two-temperature set ($139).
The suppliers are very helpful people, and the supplied instructions are clear. The system (rated at 12 v) works perfectly on 6 volts.
The Subaru Forester has cylinder head castings that seem to be identical. This sensor was located on the driver’s side where a bolt secures a bracket holding ignition cables.
This is the passenger side head and the same unused threaded hole is used with a short bolt to secure the sensor
This was an install on the current model 2.8l Toyota diesel. A EG01-2 dual sensor model was used with a sensor on the front of the head, and a second sensor at the rear of the cylinder head casting. This sensor on the rear was on the non-prefered exhaust side of the head, but is at least 100mm from the exhaust ports- and there are no other easily accessible locations on the inlet side of the head.
